Picking the Right English Bulldog Puppy
● English Bulldogs possess behavioral quirks specific to their breed that require you to take some time to think about how good the match would be before you get one. If any of the traits of a Bulldog doesn't fit with your lifestyle or with what you expect from your dog, consider getting a different breed. Bulldogs are like couch potatoes, that is their middle name. They aren't prone to high grooming maintenance, however do need to have their wrinkles cleaned on a daily/weekly basis to prevent skin infections.
● Bulldogs are not high strung, they don't require a lot of exercise, so if your family is extremely active, a Bulldog may not be a good fit. They tend to be the lazy man's dog. If you work and leave, for pretty much of the day, then come home after that hard day of work, your Bully will be happy to hang out with you for that much-needed relaxation time.
● No matter where you get your Bulldog, finding a healthy one is important. Your dog is going to be a part of your family for around 8-10 years or more.
● A puppy needs to stay with his mother until he is at least 7-8 weeks of age. This helps to develop the great temperament and wonderful socialization that the Bulldog is known for.
● Make sure you choose a healthy, active puppy. Also check for open sores, dirty wrinkles, and missing hair.
● Your Bulldog puppy should also be weaned and eating dry kibble before going to its new home.
● Make sure your puppy is current on vaccinations and worming schedules. Your new puppy should have at least 1 set of shots if not more before going to your new home. Make sure you take your puppy to a veterinarian within 72 hours of taking your new one home for that much-needed health check and any/or follow-up shots he may be due for. Please continue to visit your vet regularly as required for vaccinations to prevent those dreaded diseases that can easily occur with puppies.
We are more than your breeder, those tiny puppies for sale are always our babies whenever you need us we are there!
History Of Bulldogs
Just the name "Bulldog" conjures up an image of a real tough guy, and when you put a picture of the dog with the name, you get an image of a real tough Dog. Bulldogs are stocky, sturdy dogs with a solid, foursquare stance and a face that says, "Bring it on, I can take it." All those wrinkles and that pushed-in nose give an impression of gruffiness and a ready-to-fight attitude. No wonder the Bulldog is the mascot of the United States Marines! The English Bulldog was unofficially adopted as the Marine Corps mascot during World War I, when the German army reportedly nicknamed the attacking Marines Teufelhunden, meaning "Devil Dogs." Yet despite that face and sturdy body, today's Bulldog is a sweetie - a real softie with no hard feelings towards anyone. Bulldogs weren't always big softies. Originally, the Bulldog was bred for the sport of bull-baiting in England. The fanciers of the sport molded a Bulldog to perform specifically for the bull-baiting. The Bulldog who fought a bull in the ring needed to be a certain build and to have fighting qualities. Breeders worked diligently to mold the fighter that became the bull baiter. The fanciers wanted a dog built low to the ground to make it harder for the bull to get his horns underneath the dog. If the bull lifted the Bulldog on his horns, the dog would be thrown across the stadium. Plus the dog needed to be sturdy and well-muscled to withstand the occasional toss. Many early Bulldogs were smaller and lighter than the Bullies of today. The nose needed to be set back from the front of the muzzle and needed to be turned up so that when the dog had a good grip on the bull's nose, the dog's nose wouldn't be buried in the bull's face. The dog would be able to breathe without ever letting go of the bull. The Bulldog's distinctive wrinkles were a sought-after feature because they channeled the bull's blood away from the dog's eyes and nose. The breeders also wanted a dog who was determined and wouldn't quit. In bull-baiting, people placed bets on how long the dog would face the bull. Horrible stories circulated about handlers who maimed their dogs to show that the dogs, even on two or three legs, would keep going after the bull. When bull-baiting was finally outlawed, the Bulldog's future looked grim. But fortunately, many people admired the Bulldog's temperament, and breeders set out to preserve and perfect the Bulldog by breeding out any viciousness but keeping the tenacious side of the dog's personality. The result is today's Bulldog - fierce-looking on the outside and a marshmallow on the inside. But remember that your Bully's marshmallow interior can turn to granite if you ask him to do something he doesn't want to do. A Bulldog has retained his spirit of determination and steadfastness.
You can't argue with a Bulldog!
Breed Standards
The perfect Bulldog must be of medium size and smooth coat; with a heavy, thick-set, low-swung body, massive short-faced head, wide shoulders, and sturdy limbs. The general appearance and attitude should suggest great stability, vigor, and strength. The disposition should be equable and kind, resolute and courageous (not vicious or aggressive), and demeanor should be pacific and dignified. These attributes should be countenanced by the expression and behavior. Bulldogs possess behavioral quirks specific to their breed that require you to take some time to think about how good the match would be before you get one. If any of the traits of a Bulldog doesn't fit with your lifestyle or with what you expect from your dog, consider getting a different breed. Bulldogs are like couch potatoes, a matter of fact, that is their middle name. They aren't prone to high grooming maintenance, however do need to have their wrinkles cleaned on a daily/weekly basis to prevent skin infections. Bulldogs are not high strung, they don't require a lot of exercise, so if your family is extremely active, a Bulldog may not be a good fit. They tend to be the lazy man's dog. If you work and leave, for pretty much of the day, then come home after that hard day of work, your Bully will be happy to hang out with you for that much-needed relaxation time.
● No matter where you get your Bulldog, finding a healthy one is important. Your dog is going to be a part of your family for around 8-10 years or more.
● A puppy needs to stay with his mother until he is at least 7-8 weeks of age. This helps to develop the great temperament and wonderful socialization that the Bulldog is known for.
● Make sure you choose a healthy, active puppy. Also check for open sores, dirty wrinkles, and missing hair.
● Your Bulldog puppy should also be weaned and eating dry kibble before going to its new home.
● Also, make sure your puppy is current on vaccinations and worming schedules. Your new puppy should have at least 1 set of shots if not more before going to your new home. Make sure you take your puppy to a veterinarian within 72 hours of taking your new pup home for that much-needed health check and any/or follow-up shots he may be due for. Please continue to visit your vet regularly as required for vaccinations to prevent those dreaded diseases that can easily occur with puppies.
● The size for mature dogs is about 50 pounds; for mature bitches about 40 pounds.
● The circumference of the skull in front of the ears should measure at least the height of the dog at the shoulders.
● The "points" should be well distributed and bear good relation one to the other, no feature being in such prominence from either excess or lack of quality that the animal appears deformed or ill-proportioned.
Eyes and Eyelids
● The eyes, seen from the front, should be situated low down in the skull, as far from the ears as possible, and their corners should be in a straight line at right angles with the stop. They should be quite in front of the head, as wide apart as possible, provided their outer corners are within the outline of the cheeks when viewed from the front. They should be quite round in form, of moderate size, neither sunken or bulging and in color should be very dark. The lids should cover the white of the eyeball when the dog is looking directly forward, and the lid should show no "haw."
Ears
● The ears should be set high in the head, the front inner edge of each ear joining the outline of the skull at the top back corner of the skull, to place them as wide apart, and as high, and as far from the eyes as possible. In size, they should be small and thin. The shape termed "rose ear" is the most desirable. The rose ear folds inward at its back lower edge, the upper front edge curving over, outward and backward, showing part of the inside of the burr. (The ears should not be carried erect or prick-eared or buttoned and should never be cropped.)
Skull
● The skull should be very large, and in circumference, in front of the ears, should measure at least the height of the dog at the shoulders. Viewed from the front, it should appear very high from the corner of the lower jaw to the apex of the skull, and also very broad and square. Viewed at the side, the head should appear very high, and very short from the point of the nose to the occiput. The forehead should be flat (not rounded or domed), neither too prominent nor overhanging the face.
Cheeks
● The cheeks should be well rounded, protruding sideways and outward beyond the eyes.
Stop
● The temples or frontal bones should be very well defined, broad, square, and high, causing a hollow or groove between the eyes. This indentation, or stop, should be both broad and deep and extend up the middle of the forehead, dividing the head vertically, being traceable to the top of the skull.
Face and Muzzle
● The face, measured from the front of the cheekbone to the tip of the nose, should be extremely short, the muzzle being very short, broad, turned upward, and very deep from the corner of the eye to the corner of the mouth.
Nose
● The nose should be large, broad, and black, its tip set back deeply between the eyes. The distance from the bottom of the stop, between the eyes, to the tip of the nose should be as short as possible and not exceed the length from the tip of the nose to the edge of the inner lip. The nostrils should be wide, large, and black, with a well-defined line between them. Any nose other than black is objectionable and a brown or liver-colored nose shall disqualify.
Lips
● The chops or "flews'' should be a thick, broad, pendant, and very deep, completely overhanging the lower jaw at each side. They join the inner lip in front and almost or quite cover the teeth, which should be scarcely noticeable when the mouth is closed.
Bite & Jaws
● The jaws should be massive, very broad, square, and "undershot," the lower jaw projecting considerably in front of the upper jaw and turning up.
Teeth
● The teeth should be large and strong, with the canine teeth or tusks wide apart, and the six small teeth in front, between the canines, in an even, level row.
Neck
● The neck should be short, very thick, deep and strong, and well arched at the back.
Topline
● There should be a slight fall in the back, close behind the shoulders (its lowest part), whence the spine should rise to the loins (the top of which should be higher than the top of the shoulders), thence curving again more suddenly to the tail, forming an arch (a very distinctive feature of the breed), termed "roach back" or, more correctly, "wheel-back."
Body
● The brisket and body should be very capacious, with full sides, well-rounded ribs, and very deep from the shoulders down to its lowest part, where it joins the chest. It should be well let down between the shoulders and forelegs, giving the dog a broad, low, short-legged appearance.
Chest
● The chest should be very broad, deep, and full.
● The body should be well ribbed up behind with the belly tucked up and not rotund.
Back and Loin
● The back should be short and strong, very broad at the shoulders and comparatively narrow at the loins.
Tail
● The tail may be either straight or "screwed" (but never curved or curly), and in any case, must be short, hung low, with decided downward carriage, thick root, and fine tip. If straight, the tail should be cylindrical and of uniform taper. If "screwed," the bends or kinks should be well defined, and they may be abrupt and even knotty, but no portion of the member should be elevated above the base or root. Forequarters, Shoulders
● The shoulders should be muscular, very heavy, widespread, and slanting outward, giving stability and great power.
Forelegs
● The forelegs should be short, very stout, straight and muscular, set wide apart, with well-developed calves, presenting a bowed outline, but the bones of the legs should not be curved or bandy, nor the feet brought too close together.
Elbows
● The elbows should be low and stand well out and loose from the body.
Hindquarters
● The hind legs should be strong and muscular and longer than the forelegs, to elevate the loins above the shoulders. Hocks should be slightly bent and well let down, to give length and strength from the loins to hock. The lower leg should be short, straight, and strong, with the stifles turned slightly outward and away from the body. The hocks are thereby made to approach each other, and the hind feet turn outward.
Feet
● The feet should be moderate in size, compact, and firmly set. Toes compact, well split up, with high knuckles and short stubby nails. The hind feet should be pointed well outward.
Coat
● The coat should be straight, short, flat, close, of fine texture, smooth and glossy. (No fringe, feather, or curl.)
Skin
● The skin should be soft and loose, especially at the head, neck, and shoulders.
Wrinkles and Dewlap
● The head and face should be covered with heavy wrinkles, and at the throat, from jaw to chest, there should be two loose pendulous folds, forming the dewlap.